tutorial

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USING SVG CUT FILES WITH THE BROTHER SCANNCUT

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Disclosure: I include affiliate links to the products used in my projects and make a small commission when you purchase via those links, at no extra dimes to you. Thanks muchly!

 
 

I design all my SVG (Scalable Vector Graphic or .svg) cut files using vector software, such as Adobe Illustrator or Affinity Designer.  I can export my designs directly from software like this to SVG format, which is compatible with Cricut's Design Space, Silhouette Studio's Designer Edition (paid upgrade) and other cutting machine softwares that are compatible with SVGs.

Many of you may own a Cricut (affil) digital cutting machine, as I do; it's currently the most prominent hobby cutting machine for crafters because it's most likely the easiest for novices/those less tech savvy to learn and use.  But a number of you may own or have recently acquired a Brother ScanNCut (affil). The ScanNCut is unique within the industry in that it is currently the only hobby cutter with a built-in scanner, making “Print Then Cut” functions, such as sticker-making, considerably easier.

While the Brother ScanNCut is considered a stand-alone machine that doesn't necessarily require a computer to operate, it uses a proprietary file format called FCM (or .fcm) to communicate with the machine.  To use an SVG cut file with the ScanNCut, it must first be converted to FCM.  You can do this using Brother's Canvas Workspace software, which is available for FREE.  You can either download it (MAC or PC) or use the online version/browser version; you'll need to register for a free account as well.

TIP:  The downloadable software is more powerful/has more features than its cloud/browser based counterpart.  I highly recommend downloading and learning it to get the most out of your ScanNCut. You can also purchase software upgrades (similar to Silhouette Studio) to access even more features.

I'm sharing how to use the free, downloadable software to convert any SVG file to FCM.  Please bear in mind I am not a ScanNCut expert and I purchased my ScanNCut CM350 nine years ago; it has since been discontinued. Granted, I haven't used it since I purchased the Cricut Maker (OG, not the Maker 3) four years ago and I can only assume there have been updates to the software.  I haven't used the cloud version, but I suspect the process is similar?

In this instance, I figured a video tutorial would be most helpful:




Important things to note with Canvas Workspace:

  • Be aware that Canvas Workspace always imports an SVG file UN-grouped but sometimes at the incorrect size; BEFORE making any adjustments, follow the steps in the video to group all layers together and then resize accordingly; if you cannot determine the grouped file's proper size, you can use Cricut's Design Space (create a free account; paid subscriptions are only for their Access Library filled with design/project files and includes extra software features) and upload the file there to find out the dimensions.  Design Space always imports SVGs as grouped, making this an excellent hack for confirming file dimensions.  Once the grouped file has been properly sized, you can ungroup all the layers and manipulate each one individually.

  • While most SVG designers, myself included, usually create our files in color, Canvas Workspace will often import the entire SVG file in black.  I don't know why.  It is up to the user to determine the colors for all the layers/shapes.

  • Initially it will appear that all the pieces/layers are not there. This is because they are stacked on top of each other, in the order that the designer intended, and all black. But, if you click on the layers panel on the right menu, you will be able to see all the pieces are indeed there and you can move and rotate each piece individually to fit within the 11.5 x 11.5" maximum cutting area (12x12 mats; 11.5x23.5" for 12x24 mats) and maximize the space.  Any layers/pieces that extend outside the maximum cutting area (which is indicated as a red outline) will not cut.

  • Solid score lines, while present and evident in the layers menu are often not actually visible until you apply a "line" color (not a "fill"; there are two options for applying color) to them in the properties panel, which really helps! These lines can also be converted to dashed cut lines, and then be grouped to their corresponding cut layer so that these operations will occur where they are supposed to in relationship to each other.

MY WORKFLOW FOR CONVERTING SVGs to FCM FILES:

  1. Create a new empty folder on my desktop; name it similarly as the SVG file. This will be my "project" folder where all the FCM files specific to this design will be organized; makes everything easier in the future.

  2. Import the SVG and once it's on the Canvas, without altering/moving anything, group ALL layers together; double check grouped file size in Cricut Design Space, and if necessary, resize file accordingly.

  3. Ungroup all layers, then select and apply desired "fill" colors to each layer/shape.  Apply "line" colors to score lines for visibility (I usually use primary blue, as most designers indicate score lines in that color)

  4. Convert solid score lines to dashed cut lines and group to corresponding layer/shape.

  5. Pick a color to start laying out/prepping for conversion. As an example, I'll start with white.  Using the layers panel, I will HIDE (using the eyeball icon) all layers/shapes that are NOT white.

  6. Arrange all white layers/shapes within the maximum cutting area (the red outline), taking care that none of them overlap each other.

  7. Export to FCM, to the project folder on my desktop, giving it a distinct name, i.e. white-snow-layers. (It will give you a warning that all of the hidden layers will be excluded in this export; this is what we want.) The ".fcm" at the end of the file name should populate automatically upon export.

  8. Now hide all white layers/shapes on the canvas, and UN-hide the next set of layers/shapes that are all the same color, such as "light green", repeating Steps 6-7.

  9. Repeat the process with each color until the whole SVG file has been converted to FCM files, separated by color.

  10. Now you can transfer the FCM files to your ScanNCut for cutting, using one of the following methods shown on Brother’s website HERE.


Once you develop a workflow, you’ll be able to speed through this fairly quickly; having your layers sorted and saved by color inside your project folder should make it much easier and faster for reproducing.

Happy crafting with SVG files and your ScanNCut!


Julie

If you’re interested in the SVG file shown in the video to demonstrate or either of the two machines, thank you for using my affiliate links.

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CRICUTING AND WATERCOLORING

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Disclosure: I include affiliate links to the products used in my projects and make a small commission when you purchase via those links, at no extra dimes to you. Thank you.

 

VIDEO

 

I don’t know anyone that doesn’t appreciate flowers. This design is a fun way to incorporate dimension and watercoloring, but it did take me some time (many test cuts/prototypes) to perfect it. As far as cutting and assembly goes, I do have some tips that I figured out that I think would be helpful to anyone—but in particular, someone new to digital cutters.

Cutting machines, such as the Cricut, are somewhat constrained in how intricately/delicately they can cut paper materials. Much is dependent upon sharpness of blade, the quality and thickness of the paper, the way the fibers are bound together, how much cotton is in the fibers, etc.

As a general rule of thumb, the heavier the weight of the paper/card stock, the more difficult it is for the machine to achieve clean cuts with intricate and/or small designs. Every machine (even among the same brand and model) is calibrated slightly differently; settings that work for me and my machine should be used as a starting point for you to develop and tweak to suit your machine.

For the above design, I used three card stocks types, with these settings on my Cricut Maker:

  1. 140# Watercolor Paper → Poster Board

  2. 80# Precision Card Stock by Park Lane (American Crafts Precision is identical) → Card Stock for Intricate Cuts

  3. 80# Neenah Solar White (for the 5” square base card) 🚫 Cuts terribly on a digital machine; use a paper trimmer to make your base cards and low profile metal paper craft dies to die cut shapes with a manual die cutting machine, like the Spellbinders Platinum 6 or an electric machine, such as the Gemini Jr.

TIPS:

  • The Cricut Maker is capable of using an optional Fine Tip Debossing Tool* that actually works better than the scoring stylus or the scoring wheel; well worth the investment, especially on thicker or textured papers! Anything you want to score make sure to change the operation in Design Space from a basic cut to DEBOSS. (Design Space automatically assumes every line is a basic cut when uploading SVG files.)

  • ETA 04/30/24 If you’re working with an Explore (Air) Series or you have the Maker but don’t want to purchase the Deboss Tip, you can accomplish the same thing using the Scoring Stylus; watch a video about that HERE.

  • To make faux chipboard from intricate cuts, cut multiples from 65-80# card stocks and glue them together; you’ll achieve much cleaner cuts; intricate designs cut from 100# card stock or heavier are better suited for a laser cutter.

  • Use clean, sharp blades; use the plunger end of the blade housing to push the blade out to inspect and remove any debris or bits stuck in there. If the blade is gunked up, use alcohol prep pads to remove adhesive. If the blade tip is broken off or dull, replace the blade (they cannot be sharpened). If you cut vinyl or other materials, reserve a blade for paper and the other for vinyl, etc. to help extend the life of blades.

  • Brand new Standard Grip mats may be too sticky at first; neutralize the tack a little by patting clean hands against the surface. It will help prevent tearing when removing the paper after the cut.

  • Purchase back-up mats; it can save you time if you load different colors of card stock onto separate mats and have them ready to go.

  • Use a brayer to make sure paper is secured to mat with no air gaps; you can use a scraper, but I find it doesn’t work quite as well and it can sometimes scratch/scar the material surface.

  • Make sure cutting mats are clean; no debris or bits of material on the surface.

  • Always flip your cutting mat over and curl/roll it away from paper materials to avoid curling/warping paper.

  • Position images towards the bottom of the cutting mat whenever possible; when the cut finishes, do NOT press the unload button; instead check first to ensure the cuts are complete. If not, press the paper back into place on the mat and hit the “C” button again. The machine will run through the cut a 2nd time in exactly the same position. If you unload the mat and then decide to re-run the cut, you will not be able to line it up in the exact same position due to a 3% margin of play on the feed guides.

  • Clean Color Real Brush Markers: Apply quick swipes of color and avoid coloring completely; use a waterbrush to blend the colors to create a painterly effect.


Does any of this written info help? I never know whether or not to include it. Personally, I prefer written instruction over video, any day of the week, unless it is impossible to describe with words, LOL!